Manyara

Manyara National Park was an experience much like Lake Nakuru but more magical, more right.  It is small, like Amboseli and 60% is lake but it is beautifully green with its mosaic of vegetation broken by whispering streams and even singing rivers.  Our first day was meant to introduce us to the park and give us an opportunity to get out all of our eeby jeebies before our field exercise the next day.  This was such a blessing since we saw a Saike’s monkeys and hornbills for the first time, massive vultures, a Marshall eagle, hippos, wildebeest, zebra, warthogs, forest elephants, crested guinea fowl, a bushbuck just passing some time in a tree, a three-legged impala and the most amazing moments of all, lions sleeping in trees, one waking, and climbing down from her 18-foot perch to hunt for the night!  So much awesomeness!  I wouldn’t have been able to focus; I was on cloud nine. 

           

I didn’t think I could get higher but I did.  I found myself braced nearly halfway out the Land Cruiser window as we left Manyara, which means valley, and ascended the beautiful escarpment up into the hills towards Karatu and camp.  The view before me was blue rolling hills landing in lush green valley and baobab tree silhouettes outlined by the fading light.  The sky and hills seemed to blend together into a beautiful mix of cool hues. 

A pressure began in my chest- like an instant explosion of complete and total peacefulness, joy, and wonderment.  I started to notice that I the smell of campfire was also in the air and I couldn’t hold in my smile anymore.  As I beamed out the window, the beautiful and welcoming Tanzanians we passed waved, the children chased our car beside my window, and they all were smiling back at me.  I knew I loved this place.  Yesterday I knew I was falling in love, the day before I knew I would fall in love, but this day I was in love. 

My realization seemed to be affirmed as the view of an agricultural fire on a far hill came in to view.  Its bright orange flames were in stark contrast to the fading hues of blue and it held my attention like a gem.  It was a gem.  It was a gift, an acknowledgement that what I am here to study- the conflicts, poverty, and issues of this place are dangerous, like that fire, but they are also beautiful in that they have brought me here, they inspire people, and they unite a diversity of minds in a common drive to live.  This day has been about living a beautiful life.

            

Pretty little Bee-eater bird.

Syke's monkey (above) and Maasai giraffe (below)

Eastern Africa is the only region in the world with tree-climbing lions.

Though watching a lion descend a tree doesn't sound that phenomenal, this was one of the most amazing moments I've had in Africa yet.  We were told that seeing a lion in Manyara National Park is very rare.  I told Kioko, my new Wildlife Ecology professor and my driver that day that we are good luck and would probably see one.  And we did.  He also had never seen crested guinea fowl before and we saw those too.  Lucky day.

I love zebras...

Elephants in the Manyara region are much smaller than normal African elephants because of hunting.  Trophy hunting over the last 100 years has eradicated the very large individuals and artificially selected for the small ones to survive.  Thus the individuals in the remaining population are tiny, for elephant standards.  

I have no idea why this bushbuck was chilling in a tree.

This is a rare adult female Shikra.

We had to do a baboon behavior study our second day in the park.  I really have come to have a minor dislike for baboons.  They're filthy violent creatures but are still fascinating to watch, just not for two whole hours.  This little guy was a highlight though.  No matter the animal, babies are babies and babies are adorable, especially when they need to grow into their penis.  

Kingfishers are one of my favorite birds here in Africa.  I have yet to get a really good shot of one yet though.

Left is the Southern Ground Hornbill.  I've never seen a bird like it and it's about as big as a small dog.  On the right is a very large vulture.  They are very ugly intimidating creatures but also fascinating.  

    

This is my first hornbill in the wild.  They are all over the park.  If you ever go to the Denver Zoo, there is an exhibit for them and outside the exhibit is a skull which is one of the most memorable displays for me in the entire zoo.  I swear their skulls are not of this world!

Real life baobab trees... all over the place.